Nor’easter Tree Safety Tips for Pennsylvania Homeowners
Nor’easters are among the most destructive weather events for trees in the Lehigh Valley. Unlike summer thunderstorms that strike fast and move on, nor’easters can deposit heavy wet snow and ice over 12–24 hours, loading trees with hundreds of pounds of additional weight while winds strip them from multiple directions. A tree that survived twenty summers of thunderstorms can fail completely in a single nor’easter. Here is how to assess your trees before storm season and what to do when one is approaching.
Why Nor’easters Are Especially Hard on Trees
Wet Snow vs. Dry Snow
Not all snow is equally dangerous. Dry, powdery snow slides off branches and adds relatively little weight. Wet, heavy snow (common in Lehigh Valley nor’easters when temperatures hover just at or above freezing) sticks to every branch and needle. A single cubic foot of wet snow can weigh 20 pounds. A large tree can accumulate several hundred pounds on its canopy during a significant event.
Ice Accumulation
Ice storms — where freezing rain coats every surface — are the most catastrophic for trees. A 1/4-inch glaze of ice adds approximately 500 pounds to a mature tree’s canopy. A 1/2-inch glaze can add 1,000+ pounds. Even structurally sound trees fail under these loads. The Lehigh Valley is particularly susceptible to ice events during nor’easters when the storm’s warm and cold air boundary runs through the region.
Saturated Soil
Nor’easters often follow a period of autumn rain that has saturated the soil. When soil is fully saturated, the mechanical grip it provides to tree roots is dramatically reduced. Trees that would be stable in dry soil can uproot entirely in wet soil under a fraction of the wind load they would otherwise survive. This is why the largest tree failures often happen at the root rather than at a branch or trunk crack.
Pre-Storm Tree Assessment — What to Look For
The best time to identify hazardous trees is before a storm is in the forecast. Walk your property and check each significant tree for:
Dead or Hanging Branches
Any dead branch in the canopy is a “widow maker” — it will fall during a storm, if not before. Look for: branches with no leaves during the growing season, branches with peeling or missing bark, branches that are noticeably lighter-colored than surrounding live wood. These should be removed before storm season, not after.
Co-Dominant Stems with Included Bark
When a tree has two main trunks growing from the same point, check the union between them. “Included bark” — bark that has been pushed inward between the stems rather than growing out — is a warning sign of a structurally weak union. Push the two stems lightly apart and look: is there a V-shaped notch of bark growing between them? That is included bark, and this junction is prone to splitting, especially under ice or snow load.
Cracks or Splits in the Trunk
Any visible crack running along the trunk — especially vertical cracks or cracks at the base of a major limb — indicates a tree that may be one storm away from failure. Large horizontal seams at the base of the trunk can indicate advanced basal decay.
Soil Heaving or Leaning
If the ground around the base of a tree looks disturbed, raised on one side, or if the tree has developed a noticeable lean that was not there last year, root failure may be in progress. A sudden lean is a critical warning sign — this tree can fail at any time.
Fungal Growth at the Base
Conks (shelf fungi), mushrooms growing at the base of the trunk, or masses of small mushrooms in a ring around the roots are signs of active wood decay. Most bracket fungi growing on a live tree indicate the interior wood is already compromised. Common species to know in the Lehigh Valley: Ganoderma root rot (a large, shelf-shaped conk with a brown or red-brown top), Armillaria honey mushrooms (clusters of small honey-colored mushrooms at the base in fall), and artist’s conk (large, white-pored shelf fungus).
What to Do When a Nor’easter Is Forecast
72 Hours Before — Schedule Hazard Assessment
If you identified any concerning trees during your pre-season walk-through and postponed addressing them, a forecast nor’easter should be the trigger to act. Call an arborist at least 72 hours before the storm if possible — most companies are fully booked in the 24 hours before a major storm event.
48 Hours Before — Protect What You Can
- Move vehicles into the garage or at least away from trees with potential failure zones
- Bring outdoor furniture, trampolines, and play equipment indoors or secure them (these become projectiles)
- Move potted trees and shrubs to sheltered locations
- Identify the breaker for your outdoor outlets and know how to shut off utilities
24 Hours Before — Know Your Emergency Contacts
- PPL Electric emergency line: 1-800-342-5775
- Your homeowners insurance claim number (find it now, not during the storm)
- A licensed tree service with emergency response (Stone Ridge: (610) 253-5311)
- Your municipality’s public works department for street tree emergencies
During the Storm — What to Do
Do not go outside to shake snow off branches during an active storm. This is how people are injured — by falling branches that have been stressed to the point of failure by the snow load. The risk of additional branch failure during or immediately after the storm is highest.
If you see a tree actively failing (sounds of cracking, visible movement), move everyone away from the affected zone immediately. Alert neighbors if their property is in the potential fall zone.
If a tree contacts a power line during the storm: do not approach, do not touch anything in contact with the line (including the tree, any fence or metal gate the tree has fallen against), and call PPL immediately.
After the Storm — Safe Assessment and Cleanup
Wait for Daylight
Do not attempt tree assessment or cleanup at night after a storm. Hazards are not visible, footing is unstable, and the risk of encountering downed power lines is highest in darkness.
Look Before Stepping
Before walking under any tree after a nor’easter, look up. “Hangers” — partially broken branches caught in the canopy above — are among the most common post-storm injuries. They can fall with no warning. Walk around the tree’s drip line (the outer edge of the canopy) before walking underneath it.
Assess Damage Systematically
After the storm passes:
- Check for new cracks or splits that developed under the snow load
- Look for trees that have shifted in the soil — even small movements can indicate root damage
- Document all damage with timestamped photos for insurance purposes
- Check your gutters and roof for debris before the next rain
Evergreen Trees — Special Nor’easter Considerations
Evergreen trees (Norway spruce, white pine, arborvitae, white cedar) are especially vulnerable to nor’easters because their needle-covered branches catch snow that simply falls through the bare branches of deciduous trees. A heavily snow-loaded Norway spruce can lose major branches or topple entirely under conditions that leave nearby deciduous trees undamaged.
If you have large evergreens near structures, consider having an arborist assess them for pre-storm cable installation — structural cabling between major stems can prevent co-dominant leaders from splitting apart under load. This is particularly effective on large, multi-stemmed arborvitae and upright arborvitaes commonly planted as privacy screens throughout the Lehigh Valley.
FAQs — Nor’easter Tree Safety PA
Should I knock the snow off my trees after a nor’easter?
Small, flexible shrubs can be gently swept clear with a broom from the bottom up. Do not knock snow off from above — you will add impact forces to an already-stressed branch. For trees, leave the snow — it will melt faster than you expect on most branches. Attempting to shake or hit branches to dislodge snow is how people get hit by falling branches. Let the tree shed snow naturally.
My tree split during the storm but the two halves are still standing. Is it safe?
No. A split tree with both halves still standing is an active hazard — one or both sections can fail at any time, particularly during rain or wind. Do not walk under it, do not let children near it, and call for emergency removal. A split tree is not a wait-and-see situation.
How soon after a storm should I have storm-damaged trees assessed?
Immediately after the storm passes, at least visually. Professional assessment within 1–3 days. Storm-damaged trees that are still standing can be in unstable configurations that are not visually obvious — early assessment identifies what is safe to leave and what needs prompt attention.
Stone Ridge Landscaping LLC provides emergency storm response and post-storm tree assessment throughout Lehigh and Northampton Counties. We are available after hours for genuine emergencies. Call us before, during, or after the next storm.